Matrikines: the key to anti-ageing

In 1999, the French Professor Maquart and his team published their first article mentioning “matrikines”. What does this term designate? A matrikine is a small molecule composed of a short sequence of amino-acids, a peptide, derived from the surrounding extracellular matrix and constituting a signal in order to regulate cell activity. Matrikines play an important role in the wound healing process and connective tissue remodeling.

How does it work?

In order to react to their environment or to internal stimuli and regulate their activity, the cells use several clearly defined signalling pathways that will transfer information from the cell surface to the internal effector system, most of the time the genes. Thus, a matrikine peptide can link to a matching cell-surface receptor which is coupled to a transducer to relay information into the cell using various signalling pathways (TGF-β, PI3K for example in the case of collagen-1). So it works like a key and a keyhole. It means that the structure of the matrikine is important. Different matrikines can trigger different messages.

skin matrix macromolecule synthesis

Several peptides stimulating the production of molecules having a primary role in the maintenance of the skin properties have been identified by Sederma Research Laboratories.

What is Matrixyl®?

Matrixyl® is a trade mark of Sederma SAS. It designates an anti-wrinkle active ingredient for cosmetics containing a specific matrikine which cosmetic nomenclature denomination is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 before 2006). It contains a peptide of 5 aminoacids linked to a 16-carbon chain for improving the penetration of the molecule through the lipidic structures of the skin.

The history of Matrixyl Inside®

The first member of the Matrixyl Inside® range was Matrixyl® launched by Sederma in 2000. Then, in order to satisfy the increasing anti-ageing market, Sederma launched in 2003 Matrixyl® 3000 based on two peptides: a palmitoyl tripeptide and a palmitoyl tetrapeptide. Finally, in 2012, Sederma launched a different palmitoyl tripeptide under the trade name Matrixyl® synthe’6®. So far, the Matrixyl Inside® range contains three products.

Which one is better?

None! They are all different and perform different efficacy. For example, Sederma has recently demonstrated with ex vivo studies that Matrixyl® 3000 shows great results in repairing photo-aged skin and defragmented collagen network at the level of the dermis. The crow’s feet wrinkles decrease by 33% after applying a cream for two months. Matrixyl® synthe’6® stimulates the synthesis of collagen but also five other major constituents of the skin. The volume of the forehead wrinkles can decrease by 31% until a dramatic smoothing effect in just two months.

All those products underwent extensive research for efficacy and safety, and are patented. Matrixyl®, Matrixyl® synthe’6® and Matrixyl Inside® are trademarks of Sederma SAS. Discover the Matrixyl Inside® range here.